This YouTube video provides an interesting 3D perspective of what's going on, and what happens there. As the tide enters the gulf, the current speeds up to 8.5 knots, or about 10 miles per hour. Writing in the 7th century Adamnan called Corryvreckan "Charybdis Brecani". Hitting the water you encounter a forest of kelp. It's starkly beautiful and quite awesome, but with a slightly malevolent feel, even in the sunshine. Due to their remote location it is a difficult area for most boats to access, but in the right conditions diving here is superb. Eagle’s Wall is so-called because a family of Golden Eagles are often seen in this area. I suspect a boat (or a helicopter?)
Respect to the ancient lore. It is known that many of the Hebridean islands were under Norse control and ruled from the Isle of Man. It is possible for tourists to visit these waters by way of boat trips from local harbours or sightseeing flights from Oban Airport. Strong Atlantic currents and unusual underwater topography conspire to produce a particularly intense tidal race in the Corryvreckan channel, and this is what creates the whirlpool: as the flood tide enters the narrow area between Jura and Scarba it speeds up to 8.5 knots, and also meets a variety of seabed features including a deep hole and the rising pinnacle around which the Corywreckan forms. Today, we understand the geology and the causes of the whirlpool - we can read the tides and use our GPS or our highly detailed maps and charts to find a safe route - personally however I prefer to appease the Hag and seek her favour to allow me to pass. The Gulf of Corryvreckan has giant rock pinnacle under the sea, which rises up to just 95 feet below the surface.
They said the run up was wonderful and the narrows at the head of the Loch were great. Farsein came through with a boatload of tourists and we had a brief chat with Duncan on the VHF and heard that Rob and Jenny had been safely collected and delivered to Craobh Haven.
The Corryvreckan is the third-largest whirlpool in the world, and forms on the northern side of the gulf, surrounding a pyramid-shaped basalt pinnacle that rises from depths of 230 feet at the seafloor to 95 feet at its rounded top. To understand the area, this reading list will help: Sound of Jura: flood (north flowing) +05:45 Oban; ebb (south flowing) -00:15 Oban.
To see details of some of our dive sites, click on the links below.
Seriously, don't do it.
It is the type of dive that requires a rigorous programme of training before even considering its undertaking. [10], Monro (1594) "Skarbay" No. Murray quotes Martin Martin, who wrote in 1695 that the cave contained Breacan’s stone, tomb and altar. (Please note that this was a favour as customers and it would be politic not to abuse the privilege.). There are decent flows in The Grey Dog, Cuan Sound and in the Sounds of Jura & Luing. Our Coastguard friends like to know you're out there and also provide weather updates at regular times on marine VHF. There was a price to pay for this, as we shall see later! Pictures - Tim Dawson, Rob McKenna & Mike Buckley.
I can't remember where we were with regards to springs or neaps, but irrespective of that, it was very clear we weren't going to be going up the west side of Scarba. The general area contains some of the finest sea-paddling in Scotland and also some of the most ferocious tidal streams to be found anywhere in the world, notably in the Corryvreckan. Rob and his fiancée Jenny - a charming lady from Arizona on her first ever proper kayak trip (although we gather the "proposal" was made on an island on Loch Lomond, so in reality she'd been in a kayak at least once before), they were paddling a Calypso double on this trip although Rob usually flies a Jubilee Nordkapp; Kathy from Newcastle in a Valley Skerry; Tim from Dumfries, in his Valley Nordkapp and myself, a P&H Quest paddler, also from Dumfries.
for refreshment. On the return leg of an August boating daytrip to nearby Glengarrisdale, Orwell seems to have misread the local tide tables and steered into rough seas that drove his boat near to the whirlpool. Gulf of Corryvreckan: flood (west flowing) +04:30 Oban at springs, +05:15 Oban at neaps; ebb (east flowing) -01:45 Oban at springs, -01:00 Oban at neaps. The Torran Rocks are situated at the south-west end of the Isle of Mull.
Her chief seat is Ben Nevis.
On the second day, the woolen rope parted in a strong wind and a fearsome tide, but again they survived the night. Revenge’s have earned a reputation as very seaworthy boats, working around the Torrans as fishing boats. A pleasant spot with ample wood for another evening round the fire watching the lights of Easdale and the reassuring cast of the light on Fladda.
In 1947 he experienced the power of the Corry, nearly drowning when his boat got into difficulty. Also watch for the Cal Mac as she doesn't have much room to move in these waters on her way to her berth and she's got the size advantage! There isn't a lot of time between flows (like none!) Spectacular scenery on Jura's West coast. Most of these pinnacles need to be dived at slack water, and this is no exception. An early stop and a wonderful afternoon & evening. Campsite locations you'll have to work out for yourself! It is partly because of the Torrans that we decided to invest in the most powerful charter boat in Scotland, based on the very stable Revenge hull. Is the spirit of the Grey Dog risen from the depths and howling for his master? gives some idea of what conditions can be like here. And we're struggling into both.
In "The Silver Bough" by F. Marian McNeil we read that 'The Cailleach is the genius (sic) of winter and the enemy of growth.
Jura is FANTASTIC, truly stunning! The strait is not classified by the Royal Navy as unnavigable but the 'West Coast Pilot' reports it as "very violent and dangerous" and says "no vessel should then attempt this passage without local knowledge").
In later times, Eric Blair (better known by his pen name of George Orwell), moved to a remote farmhouse called Barnhill, on the northern tip of Jura, where he wrote his epic, "1984". The dangerous currents, standing waves and sudden calm waters between the two islands of Jura and Scarba usually appear around the changing of the tides, and most of all during spring tide. Are we making any progress? The town was founded by Vikings in the early 9th century. Having managed to get round the end of Luing, we recuperate on a wee skerry and tucked into Shuna Sound for a bit of shelter, then crossed Loch Melfort at the top end of Shuna to get back to Craobh.
At around 40 metres and deeper the wall is undercut.
This … By Corpach Bay reception was reasonable on the water. Cathy said she was a bit scared half way across - I was terrified myself! There is no mobile phone or VHF coverage in the Sound so I've no way of getting in touch with Clyde Coastguard for a forecast update - a situation resolved by the passing Cal Mac ferry who very kindly responded to my contact and gave us an update on the weather. Click the map to go to Multimap. The Corryvreckan is the third largest whirlpool in the world, and is on the northern side of the gulf, surrounding a pyramid-shaped basalt pinnacle that rises from depths of 70 m to 29 m at its rounded top.
These features combine to create whirlpools, standing waves and a variety of other surface effects. Jenny, Kathy, Tim & Mike - Rob's behind the camera. The marina at Croabh Haven aren't amenable to kayaks being launched from there. The variety of marine life in the accessible Firth of Lorn Special Area of Conservation is second only to St. Kilda.
The large and imposing stalking lodge just out of "shot" tells of the sort of folk who normally stay here - deserted when we were there, but perhaps wise to pay due respect to the owners if anyone was in residence. Oban has an excellent chandlers and various outdoor shops. Admiralty Charts - SC 2326 Loch Crinan to the Firth of Lorne / SC 2169 Approaches to the Firth of Lorne. There's now an awful lot of air moving around, and paddling is beginning to hurt - is this really water, or treacle? I'd strongly suggest you have a look at the discussions linked from the "Local Info and Community Discussions" section of the Sea Trips - Scotland page where you'll find advice and comment about tidal conditions in … Rate is 3-4 knots in the central region of the Sound between Skervuile and Ruadh Sgeir. The road south from Oban has a bad reputation as well and when we were there again in September there was a nasty head-on near Arduaine and apparently there had been another one the previous week. Rob for taking her on what was planned as a 5 day expedition round Jura and the immediate area, she being a native of a state where the only water comes from a tap. A few years ago there was a television programme featuring a dive on the Corryvreckan pinnacle, called Maelstrom. Hauled out on the rocks at the SW end of Scarba, waiting for the tide. Orwell completed a first draft of Nineteen Eighty-Four about three months after the Corryvreckan incident, with the final manuscript not finished until late 1948. No one knows.
The Isle of Jura website has a lot of information about the island, including several thousand images! Her father has consented to the marriage, on condition that Breakan should show his skill and courage by anchoring his galley for three days and three nights in the great whirlpool of Corrievreckan.
The central pinnacle supports dense mats of the hydroids Tubularia indivisa and Sertularia cupressina and the bryozoan Securiflustra securifrons. This is all clearly visible when there is no wind and the turbulent patterns are fascinating to see in … Some basic camping is available on the Lunga Estate - 01852 500531 - and they have been known to allow a few cars to be left nearby. He led them into the Corry, whereupon all the galleys were sunk.
Being candid, we were lucky - if we hadn't been able to land, we'd have probably had little choice other than to transit the Corry at a less than ideal time and if you're going to do that, only do so with a strong and competent party! The Monday forecast isn't wonderful though, so we are looking for shelter and wanting to be away from the exposed West coast when the weather changes - as it will.
Snug in our Knoydart and Kokatak gore-tex, we're protected from the elements but it's still an exercise in fairly extreme and bouncy conditions. In places, huge chunks are falling out of the wall, forming narrow gullies, which it is possible to swim through with care. They sometimes have live music of an evening.
UK Hydrographic Office website (links in the Almanac) provides tide information, as does Laver's "Greenock Oban & West Scotland Tide Tables". The force of water pouring over and around the end of this pinnacle, and falling in to the 200 metre deep hole creates an impressive area of overfalls; one of the largest whirlpools in the world.
Thanks to Tim, Rob & Jenny and Kathy. The site must be dived at slack water. A fantastic trip, made more so by good company. Post jobs, find pros, and collaborate commission-free in our professional marketplace. Running from the shore of Scarba, on the north side of the channel is a ridge of rock which comes out around 270 metres from the shore.
Very cold and windy. The Scottish Islands, Hamish Haswell-Smith.
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